Trekking in the Himalayas

Ben had been planning a long trek with his friend for over a year. So when the time finally came, they decided on the EBC (Everest Base Camp) - Kala Pathar Trek in the Himalayas during winter. The advantage of going on a trek in winter is that you can avoid the rush but the disadvantage is the cold weather. After many days of browsing the internet for details on the trek and searching for trekking companies (since we wanted a customised trek), we finalised on White Magic Adventures.

Finding a trekking company that is responsible, honest and flexible is crucial to the success of the trek. White Magic Adventures is a company formed by trekking enthusiasts with a wealth of information and experience. They helped us buy our gear and gave us all the information we needed before and during the trek. They also leased us sleeping bags and duffle bags for the whole duration. Monitoring everyone’s heartbeat was something our guide, Sanjay, did on a daily basis. They booked decent accommodation at every stop and also gave us a bit of history about each place.

We landed in Kathmandu on the 16th of December. We stayed at the Kumari Boutique Hotel, Thamel which was one of the cutest and the cleanest hotels I’d ever seen. The next two days were spent going from one shop to another to buy warm clothes, shoes, gloves etc. A detailed post on that will follow. We had to pack light and make sure that we had everything that we needed for the trek.

We started very early in the morning on the 19th of December. We went to Kathmandu Airport and got on a flight to Lukla. Luckily for us, the weather conditions were in our favour. I had read about trekkers getting stranded waiting for flights to/from Lukla due to strong winds. Lukla Airport is famous for its short runway which makes it possible only for short propeller flights to land.

We started trekking from Lukla. Each day we gained around 500 m in altitude with rest days in between to adjust to the altitude. We walked for around 6 – 7 hours each day with breaks in between. Starting early and reaching our destination before sundown was our goal, so that we would not freeze in the cold. Also, showering during the duration of the trek was a no no because of the lack of hot water and lower temperatures.

Day 1 : Lukla to Phakding

On the first day, we walked from Lukla, which was 2860 m above sea level, to Phakding. It was a relaxing 4 hour walk along a small dirt path. We did not gain any altitude on the first day but instead we descended to 2650 m. Walking along the Khumba Valley, following the path that Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay took to ascend Mt. Everest, was an experience in and of itself.

In Nepal, trekkers are not allowed to camp outdoors. There are tea houses (small motels) along the way to spend the night. All the tea houses we stayed at were neat and tidy with good menus to choose from. Though the menus were appealing, we were advised to follow a vegetarian diet to avoid falling sick. The tea house we stayed at in Phakding was along the banks of the Dudh Kosi River.

The Dudh Kosi River, as the name suggests is a milky white river that originates from the Mount Everest. It is one of the seven rivers of the Sapta Kosi River System. The upper catchment of the Dudh Kosi comprises of the Sagarmatha National Park.

Day 2 : Phakding to Namche Bazaar

The second day’s walk was the longest and we gained an altitude of 790 m. We walked for 6 hours that day. The walk was a relaxed one along the banks of the Dudh Kosi river followed by short climb after crossing the river on the Hillary Bridge. The ascent to Namche starts just after the bridge and is the hardest part of the entire trek.

We entered the Sagarmatha National Park which is located within the Khumbu region from Monjo after gaining a permit. While trekking to EBC, trekkers are required to get two permits – the Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit and Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Entrance Permit. Along the way, we visited the Sagarmatha National Park Museum where we saw Ama Dablam, Peak 38, Lhotse and Mt Everest which was the most spectacular view of my life. This was the first time we caught a glimpse of Mt. Everest. We also got a glimpse into the Sherpa culture and history at the museum.

At higher altitudes, for the convenience of climbing, most paths comprised of steps, which prevented the passage of vehicles. Supplies are carried by individuals on their backs or by yaks. Yaks, mules and jhules (cow - yak cross) are a common sight along the trek. Since getting supplies is an onerous task, we need to be responsible and should not waste valuable resources. This also adds to the increased costs of food and water as we proceed further. We can always let our guides know how much we want instead of wasting.

Namche Bazaar is a small town located between the mountains. We were mesmerised by the sight of frozen waterfalls as we entered this small town.

Day 3 : Acclimatisation at Namche

We went for an acclimatisation walk in the morning just after breakfast. The aim of the acclimatisation walk is to get your body accustomed to the altitude (low oxygen pressure). If you don’t give your body any time to adjust, and if you ascend too quickly, you’ll get Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), also known as altitude sickness, which can disorient you. The symptoms of AMS include nausea and headache.

Our acclimatisation walk was to the Hotel Everest View. We walked half way when Ben started getting a headache. We discontinued the walk and headed back to the tea house so that Ben could rest.

After lunch, we went for a stroll around Namche to explore the town. It is a beautiful town with a stream flowing right through the middle. This is the last place where you can get supplies/ medicines if you run out. Try to negotiate on the price as the shopkeepers can quote a very high price.

We spent most of the evening in the dining area which had open heating system. They burnt yak dung instead of wood because it was readily available. Evenings were spent playing games or talking well into the night. The rooms had no heating facilities and we went there only to sleep. We bought two bottles of hot water from the kitchen and slipped it into our sleeping bags for extra warmth.

Day 4 : Namche to Thyanbhoche

At higher altitudes, the oxygen pressure decreases, hindering our ability to do things quickly. We took our own sweet time to get ready and pack. Each person had two bags – a backpack and a duffle bag. The backpack had only the essentials that were required during the trek like the jackets, gloves and snacks. Everything else went into the duffle bags which were carried to the tea houses by sherpas. We tipped the sherpas at the end of the trek to show our gratitude.

As we gained altitude, trekking started becoming a challenge for me. I was finding it hard to breathe and needed frequent breaks to recuperate.

Thyangboche has one of the oldest monasteries in Nepal. The Thyangboche Monastery or Dawa Choling Gompa sits in the Khumbu Valley with the mountains in the backdrop. The tea house we stayed at had an uninterrupted view of the majestic Mt. Everest.

Day 5 : Thyangbhobhe to Dingboche

It was another day of 6 hour trek to Dingboche. It is located in the lap of Mt. Lhotse. The distance appeared very short that it felt like I could run up to the top.

The drop in temperature really hit us when we got there. The cold causes the water to freeze at night causing the pipes to burst which was a common occurrence in high altitude areas - the reason why most places from Dingboche place buckets of water inside the toilets. The water was so cold that washing hands or face was out of the question. We carried sufficient supplies of wet tissues to wipe us down which was also becoming harder.

As we gained altitude, we saw a change in vegetation. From trees with lush green leaves to shrubs with modified leaves to cope for the lack of sunlight and moisture. I must admit, the lack of moisture worked well for me and I never had to worry about frizzy hair during the entire trek.

Day 6 : Rest at Dingboche

Since we gained an altitude of 500 m, we rested in Dingboche to acclimatise. Ben and my journey along the Himalayas ended here, since I started showing symptoms of AMS and got my period. The fatigue and the cramps incapacitated me and I was not able to proceed further. It is good to have insurance to help you in situations like this. You need to be prepared for any event that can force you to change your plans. We were able to hail a heli which choppered us back to Kathmandu.

The continuation of the trek as per the itinerary

Day 7 : Dingboche to Lobuche

This trek is 6 hours long. You walk along the Khumbu valley. The temperatures are lower but the view, as always, is amazing.

Day 8 : Lobuche to Everest Base Camp to Gorak Shep

The trek on this day is longer as you walk from Lobuche to the Everest Base Camp. You can explore the base camp and spend some time there before you descend to Gorak Shep. Gorak Shep is the only place where you will be provided an electric blanket considering the very low temperatues.

Day 9 : Trek to Kala Pathar and back to Lukla

You trek from Gorak Shep to Kala Pathar where you can see the Khumbu ice fall. The view is majestic. It is freezing cold and you will need the heavy gloves over the lining to prevent frost bite. After spending some time at Kala Pathar, you can trek back to Gorak Shep to get on the heli to fly to Lukla and from there, back to Kathmandu. If you want to avoid using the heli, you can always trek back down which can be done in 3 days.

A rough plan of the route we took is embedded here. You can zoom in to take a closer look. If you want to save on flight tickets to and from Lukla, you can trek from Salleri (Solukhumbu) or Jiri which are accessible by road.